Today, when the art of making perfume of new products has turned into a mathematically precise process, and the mystery of the selection of fragrant essential oils were replaced by experiments with chemical formulas, it is difficult to imagine that just a few decades ago, synthetic notes in the perfume was very little. In fact, it became a harbinger of aldehyde fragrance of what is happening in the perfume world today - the replacement of natural to artificial. Modern perfumers have become skilled chemists (many of them, incidentally, are even higher education is in chemistry), and it all started at the dawn of the twentieth century, when the world were introduced aldehydic perfume.
What are aldehydes
Figuratively, aldehydes in perfumery became a symbol of a kind of revolution in the world of fragrance, perhaps the first synthetic compounds that in large numbers began to be used to create perfumes. In fact, the aldehydes are artificially created chemical compounds that differ in chemical structure and, consequently, by the smell. Some of the aldehyde compounds present in natural materials (for example, rose essential oil, cinnamon bark, orange peel), but today most of the aldehyde compounds synthesized artificially in chemical laboratories, and found no odor of aldehyde compounds is virtually impossible. The first aldehydic perfume came in a few years before Ernest Bo, experimenting with aldehydes, created the iconic fragrance Chanel № 5 - before it is time to make Robert Bename with his scent Houbigant Quelques Fleurs (1912) and Henri Almeras with the scent of Rosine Le Fruit Defendu (1914). In addition to Chanel № 5, "palm" of all aldehyde odors rightfully hold such famous perfume aldehyde as Lanvin Arpege, and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. In general, the amount of aldehyde fragrance, perfume brands manufactured today, "rolls over" a few hundred.
These different flavors
aldehyde duhiOdnim of the first specimens of aldehyde became a cult perfume fragrance Chanel № 5 - aldehydes in the perfume formula "given" this elegant floral fragrance recognizable odor. However, not all aldehyde compounds in the aromas have a pronounced floral aroma aldehydes can smell like fresh greens, warm wax, orange zest. Properties of aldehydes are universal, and it is for this reason these compounds are so prized in perfumes: for example, the aldehyde C-11 is often used in the composition of floral scents, has a pronounced "metallic smell", but in very small quantities, by contrast, gives the flavor exceptional freshness and lightness.
Aldehyde "overdose"
The best known aldehyde scent today remains iconic fragrance Chanel № 5, which, in fact, gave to the world of perfumery "fashion" at the aldehydic perfume. Although before the Chanel № 5 with aldehyde compounds in perfumes experimented many creators of spirits, namely aroma of French house Chanel was a kind of "pioneer" in the field of aldehyde spirits - primarily due to the fact that in the Chanel № 5 total aldehydes was almost a record, reaching almost one percent. For decades, in a narrow circle of professional perfumers were rumors that in fact, Chanel № 5 was the result of an error, "overdose" of aldehydes. An error was not fatal, but happy - if Ernest Beaux, the creator of the cult of spirits aldehyde, failed to combine in one formula, the perfume a record number of different aldehyde molecules, possibly, the world would never know the legendary fragrance Chanel № 5. Interestingly, the bright and even, if I may say so, a powerful chord of the original flavor aldehydes in 1921 has since been "muted". Already in 1952, when the "regular" house Chanel perfumer Henri Robert for the first three decades of existence has changed the flavor of its concentration and released Chanel № 5 in a concentration of toilet water, slightly reducing the "dose" of aldehydes.
No comments:
Post a Comment